Wind Turbines

Same as many other DIYers interested in AE, I have watched the development of wind power for more than 30 years. In my opinion there are two markets here, the big boys, and commercial ventures is an interesting study, and what soon becomes apparent is the challenge to build one of these big machines that will produce a return on investment is a BIG undertaking. It becomes obvious that these machines rely on bleeding edge technologies to take the incredible stress loads and to handle all the dynamic loading presented by the wind. Dynamic braking, handling storms and gusts have created challenges equal to designing materials for advanced fighter aircraft and space vehicles, and sometimes we see the same Engineers working to resolve wind turbine design problems. If you have been following this technology at all, you will know about failures, the loss of turbine blades, towers being ripped from their anchors, gear boxes exploding, braking systems failing, maintenance people trying to save machines from destruction and giving up their lives doing so. There’s lots of money spent here, and the designs are getting good… finally..

There is another market, and that is small and under funded according to my measure. Long ago, there were a number of wind turbines sold by some larger American Companies, RCA comes to mind, and their wind charger was often packaged with a tube radio that ran off batteries. these units were found everywhere across North America prior to the REA bringing electricity to rural areas. When remote Farms and Ranches got their end of the grid, these wind chargers were abandoned, you can still see the remains of these primitive but reliable systems at many ranches, some still standing, others in pieces on the Ranch’s metal scrap pile.

Over the years, we have seen an advancement in machines designed for single family homes and smaller installations. Some of these machines are well designed, and others are simply Junk made to sell. There are a few who sell wind turbines that have zero hands on experience, or even a basic understanding of the engineering challenges these machines must meet in order to survive and/or make you a return on your investment. It is VERY easy to throw your money away, and I’d guess that 90% of the people who see any return invested a lot of hours of research BEFORE making a purchase.

One of the basic mistakes people make is paying too much attention to numbers advertised. Power numbers are often advertised at ridiculous wind speeds you’ll never see and lots of people are just too optimistic about wind. One of the basic premises of investing in wind is the evaluation of the specific site. You can find information about wind in your area on the internet, but this can be misleading as there are all kinds of things that local geography can do to that wind potential, and you may be in a good area according to some map and still have ZERO chance to make a return on investment.

Another basic mistake people make is buying a wind machine that is designed to run at high RPM, some of these machines can sound like chain saws or weed eaters running, and there are a few machines that have been taken off their perches by neighbors who simply have had enough of the noise. If you don’t take these things into consideration before you send off your money, you may find your life threatened at some point. I remember listening to a conversation between two guys having a beer a a Marina in Washington state, a guest boat pulled into a slip near them and let their wind charger run all night, one of them was talking about the line that was thrown into the prop, and how the act had restored the peace and quiet to the moorage.

I just returned from Easton, my wife had strung some ‘tape’ on steel fence posts on our property line. Two weeks later, the neighbor commented that watching this tape flutter in the wind was so annoying they couldn’t focus on the TV next to the window. I took the complaint serious, and I added a post between posts in the area of complaint. I also told the neighbor I’d have no problem putting in a post every foot if that’s what it took to remedy the problem I had created. With this said.. that same window will view my prime location for the tower and wind turbine about 800 feet away. I will certainly process this, and discuss the placement of the wind turbine with this neighbor whether I have a legal obligation to do so or not, why not attempt to work it out up front?

If you have good wind with a mean speed of 15MPH, it may be far smarter to fly a 500 watt machine designed for this speed than a 3KW machine that is designed to run at 28MPH. It’s not about potential, it’s all about the work done over time. You may be pumping this energy into a battery, or might be using a net metering device and the grid for your ‘battery’ or storage device, whatever that is, it’s all about getting a Kwh of energy into that battery regardless of the power rating of the machine.

Following is one wind machine I will likely install at our off grid site at Easton, I purchased it to gain some hands on experience, so many of us understand, when the hands are on the product, that’s when the learning really starts.
Wind Turbines
Here’s a picture of the Wind Turbine Generator, that shaft is 1.6 inches in diameter near the case, and it’s a tapered and keyed where it receives the Hub for the three blades with a diameter of 8 feet two inches. This machine is rated at 500 watts, and the Gen head weighs 66 pounds, if you look at some of the offering on the internet, they will weight a fraction of this, and they will advertise far higher output figures, it will be your job to figure out what is designed to sell, and what is useful.

The generator section is only the beginning, what are the blades made out of? Will they hold up to the weather and to the speeds your system will see?

Wind Turbine

Here’s a picture of the Wind Turbine Blades, this topic could be a book all by itself and barely cover the basics. A strong well designed hub and blades that are strong and efficient to extract that energy from the wind and transfer it to the generator shaft are basic. we might add balance of the rotating assembly, as this is key to longevity and efficiency.

There are many products designed by Engineers that have no practical experience look here for a few examples. There are also a lot of companies that totally discount experience, many of these decisions are made by people with zero mechanical or electrical ability or training. For them, they think, “just how hard can it be?” and they know that a kid right out of school is cheaper in wages and total compensation. With that said, here’s a picture of a controller sub component used for a wind turbine like the one pictured above.

Wind Turbines
Here’s a picture of the dump load resistor located in the bottom of the controller. This is a rather large resistor, and it is designed to put a load on the turbine generator and keep it out of over speed. Note the Fan in the back ground, and note how the wires are routed through the sheet metal.

The DIYer/AE enthusiast will look at this and ask himself, why would anyone put the load resistor in the bottom of the case where all the dissipated heat can cook the electronic above? Next Question is… what happens when that cheap fan fails and we have no cooling? Another question, what temperature will that insulation on the wires going to the dump load resistor take? Yet another question, why did they route the wires thru the sheet metal with no grommet, and why together? So we ask ourselves, what happens IF we lose that fan AND we have high winds? The answer could be we turn this controller to a molten piece of hot plastic and metal followed by an open between the turbine output leads and the dump load. This could be followed by the loss of a turbine blade or a portion of the blade, the large imbalance, and the total destruction of the turbine generator, blades, and hub as it smacks the ground. When it hits, even that large and impressive shaft may bend!

As I examine this controller, I find some excellent work, The wire connectors are of excellent quality, lots of heat shrink in use, efforts to route wiring neatly, and more.

I note that the rather large transformer in the inverter section is held in with two screws on one side, and the other two screws are missing, there is also a grounding lead that was supposed to be tied to one of these missing screws. Products read like a book, there’s a QC passed sticker on the assembly. These are signs or a rather new product and low production numbers. This transformer is heavy, and it needs all those screws!

One of the biggest problems I see with this product is they stuff three products into one box. I think the inexperienced design team thought they were doing something wonderful for all humanity, a sine wave inverter, a controller for both the wind machine and optional solar panels all in one box! but wait, there’s still more, there’s that clever dump load right in the same box!

I don’t yet know what the power required to keep the inverter on line is at no load, but I bet it isn’t impressive.

My direction is to design a dump load that needs no fan, hey that’s easy, and we’ll even consider making use of the heat. There’s of the shelf controllers that will handle the task.

Stay tuned, this story will likely evolve as I add wind power to my existing off grid AE power system at Easton. Maybe my neighbors and how they react to wind power will be part of the story? Now to process the tower requirement, the loads, the placement. So many things I need to learn and understand BEFORE I continue. I am always a student, maybe you can learn from my mistakes? I’m sure I’ll make them.

All the Best,

George

 

Posted in Alternative Energy Sources, Projects | Tagged , , , , , | 4 Comments

Wooden Base Construction for 6/1 Generator

Start with an 8 foot beam, cut it in half and lay them parallel. Find some 2″x 2″ or larger angle iron and lay it on top and inside of the beams. Set the Lister on top, and trace the holes. Drill a 9/16s hole in the angle and inset bolts up thru the angle. Use a wood bit to countersink a hole deep enough for the bolt head, so the angle lays flush. put lag bolts in three places along the lower inside of the plate.

Set the Lister over the mounting bolts, note how the engine is set back to one end of the frame, with plenty of angle in front for the generator base to ‘track’ on. leave engine loose for the moment.

Note the detail on the Generator frame base, this is a few pieces of scrap angle welded to some flat iron to make a sliding mount. In this picture you can see that the generator is trapped and can not twist.

Here’s an excellent way to mock up the generator base and make sure you have the generator head in line with the flywheel. In this picture you see a very rigid piece of steel that is flat against the inside of the flywheel, and also flat against the end bell. You will also note that the pulley is opposite the the position so the belt is further from the operators hands.

In the pictures below, you see a bar across the front used as a spreader, this was placed to assure the frame is parallel and it also serves as a place to tie in the tensioner for the belt.

This is all too easy, and there is plenty of room to individualize your generator set.

Posted in Generators, How Tos | Tagged , , | 4 Comments

Xantrex 3000

There are a lot of things you buy cialis 10mg can do with this kind of power aboard your motor home, truck, and even for off grid living. I post this as a service to readers, I like the fact that the cut off is set higher, this gives you half a chance to start the rig IF your main start batteries power the inverter, and of course there are a lot of folks that don’t like to discharge a battery below this level for a number of reasons. Google or visit Xantrex for more information.

With an inverter aboard your pickup, you’ll find it real handy and inexpensive to carry a cheap electric chain saw and more, it’s hard to keep a gas saw ready to go, much easier to get one of those dirt cheap electric saws, and I’m amazed how much cutting I’ve already done with mine. Lat week I set a ladder off the tail gate of my truck, climbed not a giant flowering cherry out front, and dropped two branches that the garbage man has tried to break of because it interferes with his route. Neighbor came out and followed the cord into the truck, “hey, that’s really cool” he said.

Another thing I love to do is plug in the shop VAC to clean up the carpets, and under the canopy.

Description (mostly from the Xantrex website)

When your application calls for a high power inverter the XPower 3000 Plus is the affordable and reliable way to transform DC battery power into 115-volt household AC power. The inverters are ideal for long haul truckers who need to power home appliances, consumer electronic and office equipment on-board their vehicle. They are also suitable for small contractors to operate power tools from their van or pick-up truck, and for recreational users such as RV or automobile owners.

Product Features

* Portable power for AC products rated up to 3000 watts
* Two grounded AC receptacles with dedicated 15-amp breakers
* High surge capacity for products that require more power to start
* Easy to read digital display indicates DC battery voltage or ouput power
* High efficiency – converts virtually all the battery’s available power to AC
* Mounting brackets for convenient installation
* Heavy-duty stud connectors
* One year warranty (only for new, not these!)

Protection Features- Xantrex xpower 3000 model 813-3000

* Overload and over temperature shutdown
* Over voltage protection (15.5 VDC)
* Low voltage alarm (11.0 VDC) (?)
* Low voltage cut-out (11.3 VDC)

Electrical Specifications
# Max. continuous power: 2500 watts
# 5 min. continuous power: 3000 watts
# Surge capacity (peak): 5000 watts
# AC output voltage: 115 VAC RMS +/-5%
# AC output frequency: 60 Hz +/- 4 Hz
# AC output waveform: Modified sine wave
# Optimum efficiency: 90%
# No load current draw: < 0.6 A DC
# Input voltage range: 10 – 15 VDC

General Specifications
# Operating temperature range: 32F to 104F (0C to 40C
# AC receptacle: Quad (two special?, and need a power strip for four more, see pics)
# Dimensions (H x W x L): 6.3″ x 8.0″ x 18.5″
# Weight: 20.0 lb

The inverters are used, in good condition and are complete. Please note that these inverters have a custom low voltage cut-out which is set to 11.3 VDC, not at the standard 10.5.  Please refer to the Xantrex web-site for the product manual

The warranty is for 30 days, in order to facilitate an exchange for a non-op unit, only when returned at the purchasers expense, in the same condition as when received, and is only for an exchange. If this does not work for you, please do not purchase one.

The price is $195, and shipping is a flat $25, USPS, 50 states. Total of $220, paypal or certified funds, please let me know which you prefer. Will be shipped with delivery confirmation required.

Product Applications

* Household Appliances: microwave ovens, bread makers, food processors, bar refrigerators, vacuum cleaners, fluorescent and incandescent lights, sewing machines, fans, small freezers, coffee makers, popcorn makers, and toasters
* Power Tools: drills, jigsaws, sanders and buffers, circular saws, small grinders, weed and hedge trimmers
* Entertainment Electronics: televisions, VCRs, video games, stereos, musical instruments and satellite equipment
* Office Equipment: computers with 19” monitors, printers, facsimile machines

This is not sold by Utterpower, but trusted vendor who has a reputation of taking care of his customers. Do not confuse this inverter with lower efficiency units like one of the Coleman 3000 watt units, always look at the ‘no load’ current draw and ask yourself if you can live with it, or if that alone is going to drain your battery! Of course this is reflected in the overall efficiency figure. My unit came with a remote switch (often another  $20) and the 120VAC output of the inverter is brought out through a connector for connection to flexible plastic conduit you can find at Home Depot. (you could use metal if your app requires it).. This inverter is ready for your cabin, RV, or Big Rig!

Posted in Recommended Gadgets & Tools, Trusted Vendors | 4 Comments

Nomad Joatman: Certified in HVAC and AC

Nomad Joatman is a DIYer and motorhead who is HVAC and air conditioning certified.  He lives on a rolling lab of sorts. Folks looking to buy back up power should understand the importance of load management before they buy a generator, less is usually more if you do it right.

Here’s an email sent to me by the Nomad:

George,

Think of it this way: A 3 ton A/C is 36,000 BTU and requires a compressor motor that puts out 4.5hp to 5.5hp.  That’s going to eat up a 6/1’s hp to start it, but it will start it.  The biggest hog at the trough is the big central air systems.  They cool an entire house, regardless of whether someone is in the room.  We need to change our thinking a little here.  Let’s step back to the days before central air.  Window units were the rage.  You had one where you lived, whichever room that was.  The bedroom got one, you spent 1/3 of your life there and you slept comfortably.  If you had one in the parlor/living room, you were up-town!  We sold people in the late 1960s on the idea of going to central air for the convenience.  Yeah, we did the numbers game….totaled up the LRA & RLA on all their window units compared that to the central unit we were selling and “showed” them how inefficient their window units were, never mind that they were never all on at the same time trying to cool areas were they weren’t living.  That was my first experience with “numbers can mean whatever you want them too.”  I digress….

My “house” is a 40′ Motorcoach conversion.  I cool it with a 2 ton or 24,000 BTU 2 stage heat pump that is powered by a 7.25KW Chinese diesel.  My generator has NEVER loaded down!  The key here is that the unit is two stage, having two small compressors.  The thermostat demands cooling, the first compressor and fans kick on, if after two minutes the temperature hasn’t dropped, the second compressor kicks in to lend support. Each compressor is 115VAC and I run them on each leg of the 220VAC, balancing the load on the system.

Now, the cost initially for the system is usually higher.  Let’s face it, there’s more hardware involved.  Two compressors and some added controls, but the advantages are clear.  Instead of taking one big bite, you take two smaller ones.  A couple of the big A/C manufactures started experimenting with variable speed compressors a few years ago.  They we’re a turbine type of compressor rather than a piston driven.  The advantage was a spin-up start rather a big jolt to get the thing going.  They were called “Scroll Compressors” and their start up was a lot more gentle.  The downside was the same as a jet turbine…Noise.  Carrier actually came out with a “blanket” to wrap them to deaden the noise.  They may still make them, I know they sure promoted the heck out of them.

There are some of the big A/C companies that are working on variable speed compressors.  There may be some out now.  Same principle, start slower and increase speed and output as demanded.

Now as for your “customers” that say they need 15KW to push a 36,000 BTU or 3 ton system….Bullshit!  I’m reminded of a CD I bought from a so called “Guru of bus conversion.”

When sizing a generator for your bus conversion he told people to add up the wattage of everything in their rig, add 20 percent and buy accordingly.  Now I ask you, are you going to run everything in your house at once?!?!  I actually saw a rig that a guy (using the CD) had done a conversion on an MCI bus.  He had a 20KW diesel genset that weighed 1100 lbs mounted in one of the storage bays!  It took up half of a 6′ x 7′ bay and was so loud even with sound deadening and a custom muffler, that you couldn’t have a conversation near his rig……I digress again.

My belt drive compressor system will utilize three automotive compressors.  I will use time delays (variable voltage & time) to sequence them on at 1 minute intervals.  All of it is over the counter (OTC) stuff, if you know what you need.

I need to correct something or rather clarify:

(1) Locked Rotor Amps or LRA is not a measure of starting requirements on a compressor.  It is how much amperage a compressor will pull if the rotor locked in failure before the compressors internal circuit breaker will trip.  It’s valuable in sizing the line wiring and breaker requirements, but is not how much amperage a unit will pull at startup!

(2) A “soft start” kit is not the same as a hard start kit.  A soft start kit actually reduces the amount of “kick” a compressor receives to start.  They are usually used in situations where there is a loud compressor start-up to quiet a noisy compressor.  They are hard on the start windings and will kill a compressor quicker.

(3) The start capacitor can be increased safely by 20 percent in both VAC and MFD.  But only the start capacitor, not the run capacitor!  The spike on the start will be so quick and short that some recording devices won’t even register it.

In summary:

Let’s not air condition places we aren’t living.  Short of wearing space suits, the next best thing is window units.  They condition the areas where we are, not where we may go. They are a simple method of sequencing, taking little bites, instead of one big one.

Use time delays on A/C’s.  When a compressor runs the pressure on the “high side” is running about 270-325PSI and the “low side” is 70-100PSI.  When the system shuts down it takes time for the pressures to equalize.  The longer a compressor is off the better.  That’s why the owners manual on any refrigeration product recommends a 3 minute delay before re-starting.  If you don’t wait, the system is starting against a load.  Use a delay on break and set it for 5 minutes or more to reduce start-up load.  The delay on break will keep kids and the relatives from short cycling the system.

That’s all for now George,

Oh I almost forgot…..

My system for using the waste exhaust for air conditioning……well, think about two drip coffee makers; one leading to the other, one’s outlet goes to the reservoir of the other and vice versa.  As one empties the other fills, the full one switches on and the empty off until it’s full again……think about it

Nomad Joatman

Posted in HVAC/Air Conditioning | 3 Comments

Air Conditioning & Larger Loads

I receive many emails from folks with 3 ton air conditioners that are told they need a 15kw or larger generator to run their AC and other stuff. I believe it is important to sell people what they need, and no more. Smaller generators are less expensive to buy, cheaper to maintain, and in many cases the smaller sets get better fuel economy.

I have a friend with a 5hp air compressor.  It will kick out a 30 amp breaker because it attempts to start with pressure against the piston (bad; but easily fixed). Others report starting and running a 5hp air compressor with the lowly 6/1 and a properly set up gen head. A friend in Australia uses his 6/1 for running an ARC welder, and he notes that his Honda gas generator that provides twice the KW rating struggles to run it, we must consider those flywheels and know they are a source of energy and storage.  We might note that the world is full of people that push the truth. It starts when your competitor starts lying about their products, and pretty soon, their sales are up and yours are down.

I first saw it in stereo amplifiers.  A few manufacturers started using peak power figures versus RMS power, and soon other vendors followed suit.  The public was totally confused, and many potential buyers have no clue about peak versus RMS power, and just how big a difference there is, they just buy what they think is the most for the money.

A prime example of this is electric appliances, Hardware store air compressors are advertised at peak Horse Power figures, Vacuum cleaners are advertised in the same way. In fact the Vacuum cleaner saleswoman[1] stoops even lower. I have seen a good many advertisements where the Amperage is used as a power figure, more amps, more suck! It really sucks that they get away with it.

As we know, there’s a lot of design work to get efficient impellers to create that suck, and we also know there are countless other factors. We know we could add a heating element to that vacuum cleaner and pull even more amps, but I doubt it would suck any more dirt off the floor.

Back to that air compressor, is it really a 5hp unit you have? Maybe the one the Lister 6/1 has been running so well is just like 99% of them, it’s called a 5hp, but that’s a peak power figure.. Peak HP is the Horse Power that occurs at the peak, if we look at the AC sine wave, we notice there is a moment when no work is done, (the zero cross over). The recognition of this leads to the RMS figure which is the attempt to give you a more meaningful figure.

I always tell people to put a ‘clamp on amp meter’ on their stuff to find out what it really takes to start a load, remember running takes far less than starting.

Many of my AE Motorhead friends are in the south, and I can tell you they would rather have a cool room in the heat of the day during a power outage than food! We up north have little appreciation for just how hot and miserable it can get. I remember visiting Atlanta Georgia, there was a popular shopping district all set up underground, one could go from building to building underground, just like Prairie dogs, and with darned good reason.

As of this writing, I realize I can no longer ignore Air Conditioning loads, and folk’s pleadings to help size generator sets to allow them to run the stuff. At times, answering all my email is impossible, so putting answers on the CD, and posting at utterpower.com is the more reasonable solution.

I am aware that lots of stuff is designed to sell, and far less things are designed to live with. Small refrigerators drive me crazy, but till I started corresponding with Nomad Joatman, I didn’t have a clue as to what was really going on in some of my observations. For me to attempt to learn what this man already knows, and write about it, would be a little like trying to catch up to Jeff Maier in Electrical Engineering, and use of Biofuels.. I’d have to be smoking rope to think that would happen.

Sharing information is key, those who take the time to inform themselves will do well, I get a good many emails saying.. “I wish I would have read that before I bought. Can’t we all say that?

It is time our community had a little information about load management, it will make all the difference, I know this and have written about it, but I am NOT an AC guy or an HVAC guy either, these certified installers and repair people size and install all kinds of stuff, some feel the smallest detail is a trade secret, and they’re likely to be out of work if they tell you anything helpful, others are disgusted with sales types, that would sell their own father[2] twice what he needs because the commission check is bigger..

The Nomad lives in a land Yacht of his own making, it is a rolling lab of sorts, and on top of being certified in two important disciplines, he has the incentive to come up with efficient designs for himself. It means it works better with less power, and burns less fuel, that’s exactly what we want on the grid or off the gird, energy won’t be getting cheaper anytime soon.

I have the pleasure of having friends and associates from around the world, I learn that Mamad in Iran is busy with his customers teaching load management and providing solutions that allow customers to continue running their existing generators even though their business (and loads) has grown considerably.

We need to spread the word, it’s good to use less energy, and best to run a smaller generator when you can..

Tod Bjorkman is one of the greatest information gatherers I ever met. Give this guy a problem, and the first thing he’d do is gather a pile of reference material on the subject taller than a building, then he’d organize it according to relevance and digest the material. Tod would distill the material and produce answers and solutions as if they came from God!

I need to stay focused on information, there are too many distractions in life, selling is one of them.. As I write this, I am excited about the new generator; it is simple, more efficient, longer living, and starts and runs loads like nothing else I’ve seen. DIYers need access to it, there is only so much you can do in a day, Utterpower must stay on information,  there is a transition underway here. it is all about delivering a higher return on investment.

I’d like to introduce you to Nomad Joatman, certified HVAC and AC technician.

[1] We must not assume it’s a man doing the selling.
[2] Another attempt to degenderize this article, Hillary will appreciate my efforts here.

Posted in HVAC/Air Conditioning | Leave a comment

Bushed Pulleys: What you need to know before installation

I have been asked why I use bushed pulleys. Aren’t they just another expense?  Bushes pulleys, as far as I’m concerned, are an important part of KISS engineering. A bushed pulley is something that can be used on a range of shaft sizes. I use the SK sized bushing because it covers the range of sizes we DIYers normally find ourselves involved with. There are a few using the 48mm shafts, and the SK bushing covers this rather large size as well. If we step up one size to the SF bushing, we can even cover a 2 inch bore, which is the size of the Lister 6/1 crankshaft!

Bushed pulleys allow us to attach a pulley to a shaft with a VERY positive fit, if you do it right, it’ll never slip, it’ll never come loose, you won’t mangle a key way, and you can remove the pulley in sub zero weather with gloves on!  Standard bushings have two sets of holes in them; one can be used as ‘pass throughs’ and the others are threaded. What you need to know BEFORE you install a bushed pulley is that one set of these holes is used as JACKS to jack the bushing back out of the pulley. This is typically done when the pulley is put on the shaft first, with the widest part of the hole facing the end of the shaft. Then you fit the SPLIT tapered bushing onto the shaft with the smaller end first.

Some folks new to tapered bushing can’t get the new bushing on.  If you are experiencing this, always check the shaft and the bushing to make sure they are the same size.  Once you are sure of this, you will note that the bushing often needs to be opened up a little. Simply slip a flat head screwdriver in the slot, and gently tap on the butt of the screwdriver until the bushing spreads enough to get it on the shaft.

Metric SK Bushing

Above is a Metric SK sized bushing.  If you look closely you might see the SK followed by the size. You’ll also note six holes: three are larger and unthreaded and three are threaded.

SPLIT Tapered Bushing With Screwdriver

Note the split in the photo above.  This is a SPLIT Tapered bushing.  We can drive a screwdriver into the slot to help spread the bushing a little to get it started over the shaft.

Pulley In Jacking Position

Above we see the bolts in the threaded holes.  Note the end of the bolts are pushing on the face of the pulley and this will jack, or help remove, the bushing from the pulley. Since the bushing and the center hole of the pulley are tapered, they are always easy to pull, even with gloves on!

Most Common Bushed Pulley Mount

Shown above is the most common method of mounting a bushed pulley.  The FACE of the bushing (top most in this picture) is installed nearest to the end of the shaft so it is easy to use the jacking bolts and easily remove the pulley.  Simply remove these bolts and then install the jacking bolts. In the photo you can see that the bushing is NOT brought in tight against the pulley.  This is normal, and there is no reason to tighten the bolts past snug. There have been several people new to tapered bushings that have broken off the bolts trying to pull the bushing flush to the pulley! The two tapers work to secure the pulley onto the shaft as if it were welded on! Don’t get carried away, but do go around in a circle and tighten the bolts a little as you go round and round to allow the pulley and bush to seat evenly, which will allow the pulley to fully align on the shaft.

Less Common Mount Method

Above is an optional (seldom used) method  to mount the newer Utterpower Pulleys. The bolts are passed through the unthreaded holes in the pulley and into the threaded holes in the bushing. In this case, the bolt heads would be outward, and the threaded holes in the pulley would be used as the jacking holes. This option is not possible with many pulleys, and one must inspect the threaded hole and be sure they are threaded all the way through before mounting.

One other item worth mentioning:  Do not assume that the bolts and threaded holes are the same! In this case, and other cases, the holes in the the pulley are 8.8 M8 Metric, and the bolts in the bushing are typically 5/16 18 thread for the SK bushing. Make sure you check these things out and have the proper bolts before you attempt to install the pulley.

This post is intended to give you some very basic advice.  There are other excellent posts and pages to be read.  Here is one example.  I recommend a Google search of “QD bushings” to assist your learning.

Posted in Bushed Pulleys, Pulley | 3 Comments

The KISS Transfer Switch

Let’s start by wiring up a simple breaker.

Yes, we know from experience that some one will come along an throw both breakers up at the same time, and we’ll have trouble (likely smoke). With this situation understood, we add a simple interlock.

In the above example, we must move the bar to the left or right and align the slot in the bar with the switch or breaker we will operate.

Shown above is the simple DIYer Transfer Switch Box I recommend making.  There are a number of reasons, one being the price of $12,  another is the fact that the Square D home series of breakers boxes will accept three different brands of breakers. When you find the more flexible box at a lower cost, you should consider it.

Transfer switches with interlocks can save you a lot of trouble as they can be used for a lot of things, and need not cost a lot of money.   Make the plate yourself, or add $6 to a PMG order and get one from me. I suggest 10-32 screws for mounting. Home Depot is one store that carries the Square D series home boxes.

Will this setup pass your electrical codes? I’m told that in some jurisdictions, breakers are not accepted as ‘switches’. If you want to be legal, do some checking on your codes.

Tying your inverter and generator together is a bad thing, providing an interlock is important. I’d rather have one that didn’t meet a code than none at all, but you will always need to consult your local experts.

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PMG Mounting Tips

Here are some ideas for mounting the PMG safely.  I think it is important to bolt the PMG to a steel plate and I prefer a thickness of 3/16 or 1/4 inch.

There are a number of typical sliding plates with adjusters and locks out there performing well, this is the standard and has been serving DIYers for more years than I have lived for certain.

But there is another method I think is worth mentioning, I tried it on the first PMG and found no reason to change it, I also found it was lightening fast to remove the PMG from the prime mover and back onto the test stand. It is also worth noting that one unit in the field with 10,000 hours on it has this same setup, so we know that the bearings have no problem with the radial loads created.

Recommended Hinge Plate Mounting

The hinges are formed using steel pipe, the black rod is a piece of mild steel rod that just fits inside the pipe. The gray pieces are made from a short section of pipe welded to a bar, holes drilled on each side so you can mount across your frame. what makes it nice is we just size our round bar to span across our engine frame. The bar needs to be of large enough stock to be rigid. I found kicking up the plate at about 20 degrees worked really well for me. Design an adjustment arm to lock the end of the plate in position, mine ran excellent with a light spring between the plate and the frame.

This is in no way a complete guide to mounting, there are basic and important rules, and one is to ALWAYS mount the generator on the back side of the frame, on the flywheel further away from the operator if you are using the 6/1 or other dual flywheel machine like the REDSTONE. As the builder, you will always place proper shields too keep body parts out of moving belts and parts. This is less of a problem when you have a stationary engine shed where to can control access.

If there is any interest in a ready made mount for the PMGs, I’ll likely carry them. The main PMG page will be updates to include accessories and options.

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PMG Repair

Six outgoing PMGs shipped via FEDEX. So far, so good!

Although there is little to fail in this design, it is always reassuring that help is NOT far off. Part of the strategy for mission critical operations is to have a ‘repair and return’ or ‘hot spare’ sent quickly as possible. Key to our plan is the heavy METAL box that we ship in.

UPS and USPS taught us just how poorly a package or crate can be treated, and we have found that this BOX is really a mandatory part of our strategy to Deliver what our customers want. We’ve learned that it can be more difficult to deliver a package to Silver City New Mexico than into Entebbe, Uganda!

KEEP your metal box, toss it up in the rafters of your shop, use it to store your gold bars or whatever, but keep it. Should you ever ship the PMG, bolt it into the box as you received it and send it on.  At this time, we Favor FEDEX for shipping, so far, so good.

There are several reasons we suggest people in the field >NOT< service the internals of the PMGs.

People don’t realize just how much soil around them can be picked up by a strong magnet. To open up the unit in the field can contaminate it. Best thing to do is lay down a drop cloth about 10 feet by 10 feet, and set up a table in the center to work off of. Wipe down every tool, remove every nut or screw you take off to another table. The next problem in field repairs is pulling the fan, it’s an interference fit, and you need add lots of heat for a short duration to expand the alloy fan hub, then lift off the fan with gloves, this can NOT be done with a little propane torch, as you can’t get enough heat into the fan quick enough. another item to work around is lock tight is added as the fan is cooling, this makes for a ‘reliable’ connection, but don’t EVER expect to get it off without heat! reliability is far more important in this mission critical design than easy removal!

Once the fan is removed, you can remove the end bells and service the bearings, you can do this leaving the rotor in the stator, but there are tricks to pulling the rotor without killing yourself if you live in Timbuktu and really need to do it yourself. The rotor is VERY dangerous outside the stator, if you are NOT careful you could easily lose a hand!

I will not forget some of our R&D efforts here, you sneak up on the stator holding onto the back end of the rotor, all of a sudden, the rotor leaves your hand like a missile and ends up inside the stator. But as the basic teach you, the stator is moving as well if it can. It our case, the wooden stop we had set up to keep the stator in place was ripped form the table top! when this happened, the stator, and the corners of the cooling fins ripped into one of the Engineers hands, and he Bleed like a Stuck pig. The event caused me to stock some larger absorbent pads in the shop first aid kit.

For these reasons, we offer a repair and return service, and there’s also a ‘HOT SPARE SERVICE’ but you MUST return your PMG in the metal box we shipped it in, OR buy a second box from us to ship in. Certainly, we understand things can be insured, but we have learned just how impossible it can be to collect. UPS’s typical ploy is to belittle you for not hiring an engineer to design the package, and to tell you that your insurance is no good because it was improperly packaged.  However, they don’t warn you of that when they’re taking your insurance money, at least that was my experience.

So now we have an engineered box 🙂

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Utterpower's 186PMG Prototype Generator

120/240 60HZ AC PMG can carry loads at 4225 watts, with excellent starting of induction motors,  but we rate it at 3KW Continuous and this includes high ambient temperatures.

As you can see, this is a fairly compact design. Under the belt cover are two trouble free and efficient Allmand Serpentine Drive Pulleys. In this case, the engine is fitted with a 5.0 inch pulley, and the PMG fitted with the 4.2, which allows the engine to run at lower RPM, greatly extending its life over a 1:1 drive ratio. I think this engine is quite happy at 3000RPM, but 3600 is pushing the engine too hard to get the longevity out of it. Backing off even 300 RPMs in some of these higher speed designs can more than double the life of the engine.

This is only one example of a PMG gen set, but I’m sure you can see just how easy it is to build your own generator with the PMG and Allmand drive pulleys.

If Mad Max was designing one, he’d be using the PMG and the Allmand drive pulleys.   You can change the drive ratio in two minutes and replace an engine in a few more minutes.  The PMG has one moving part; if it isn’t part of the design, it can’t break!

This engine has electric start and it is not necessary to use the decompressor with the electric start.  Cogging is not a big problem and manual starting was easy for me.

Thanks to the EPA, these small diesels are much harder to find.  I have found a few for sale and you can email me for a lead if I have one at the moment.

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