Here are some ideas for mounting the PMG safely. I think it is important to bolt the PMG to a steel plate and I prefer a thickness of 3/16 or 1/4 inch.
There are a number of typical sliding plates with adjusters and locks out there performing well, this is the standard and has been serving DIYers for more years than I have lived for certain.
But there is another method I think is worth mentioning, I tried it on the first PMG and found no reason to change it, I also found it was lightening fast to remove the PMG from the prime mover and back onto the test stand. It is also worth noting that one unit in the field with 10,000 hours on it has this same setup, so we know that the bearings have no problem with the radial loads created.
The hinges are formed using steel pipe, the black rod is a piece of mild steel rod that just fits inside the pipe. The gray pieces are made from a short section of pipe welded to a bar, holes drilled on each side so you can mount across your frame. what makes it nice is we just size our round bar to span across our engine frame. The bar needs to be of large enough stock to be rigid. I found kicking up the plate at about 20 degrees worked really well for me. Design an adjustment arm to lock the end of the plate in position, mine ran excellent with a light spring between the plate and the frame.
This is in no way a complete guide to mounting, there are basic and important rules, and one is to ALWAYS mount the generator on the back side of the frame, on the flywheel further away from the operator if you are using the 6/1 or other dual flywheel machine like the REDSTONE. As the builder, you will always place proper shields too keep body parts out of moving belts and parts. This is less of a problem when you have a stationary engine shed where to can control access.
If there is any interest in a ready made mount for the PMGs, I’ll likely carry them. The main PMG page will be updates to include accessories and options.