Kitchen Aid Pro 12

We had a really good coffee pot, it made great coffee; but it was getting older and didn’t look shiny and new anymore. One morning I walked in and found this Kitchen Aid Pro 12. It has an advanced display that tells you how long it’s been since the coffee was brewed, the wife loves this feature because I can no longer lie to her about when I made it. If the telltale says it was made 1 1/2 hours ago; it gets dumped when she makes her way into the kitchen.

Having a Coffee Pot RAT on you is not the problem, having a coffee pot that has a defective valve on it is. Sharon took the first one back to the store for a replacement, but the second one isn’t any better.

Kitchen Aid Pro 12

This coffee pot works like it was designed to spill or drip coffee from both the basket and the coffee pot itself! One problem is the connection between the glass pot and the piece of plastic that forms the rim and handle. As amazing as it seems, the rim is designed with small ribs that create a small air space between the glass pot and the rim. This routes the coffee between the rim and glass; down the outside of the pot as effectively as if the designers intended it to work that way. If they had a product test team, I hope they hunt them down and shoot them all.

So here’s my thought….. if you hate your father-in-law, buy one of these for your mother-in-law for Christmas. She’ll be telling him to wipe off the kitchen counter and be asking him to chase spills all over the house till they both get smart and throw the dammed thing away.

I’m left wondering…whose coffee pot do they have in the boardroom of Kitchen Aid? I bet it isn’t a Kitchen Aid Pro12.

Follow up (honest to goodness truth) 6/05

Sharon had filled out the warranty slip, and we received a notice that this unit is also a suspected fire hazard! Sharon filled out a simple form, cut the cord off the unit an mailed it to them in exchange for money to buy a new coffee pot! Sharon selected a Mr. Coffee, of course she found one with the timer feature that tells her how long ago it was brewed. I’m still reaching for the rag to wipe up anticipated spills, but there are none! Might take me a year to break the habit…

As for the product design team? Total losers, they probably all drank soda pop for breakfast.

Posted in Things I Hate! | Tagged , , | 2 Comments

Utterpower Test Bench: 3KW PMG

If you look at the PMG testing, you can see that you can prove it good or bad in a few minutes even if you can’t spell ‘lectricity. Most are not aware that there is a high end generator set available (called an APU) that uses a PMG, it sells for about $7000 and is used in a mission critical application where conventional smaller generators are considered too failure prone. Building your own PMG is a possibility if you have the basic skills.. read on.

Once you’ve reached some level of maturity in your thinking, you’ll wonder how the term ‘whole house generator’ was ever phrased?

One quickly realizes that you manage loads, you don’t buy a huge generator just in case you want to run everything at once. There is seldom a reason to run your two largest loads at the same time and you can set up a simple relay to assure that you strip one load automatically before the other starts. It all boils down to efficiency, running a 15KW generator at 10% load will quickly break the fuel bank, and of course the initial cash layout of the generator will be significant. Lots of people learn that having too big of generator is a big problem.

People with experience know they must have a generator that can start their largest load. They also understand that it takes a lot more power to start some loads than it does to run them, so they factor this.

People with well pumps often make their generator purchase based on what it takes to start and run their well pump. In North America, most people have a one horse power submersible pump or something easier to start like a 1/2 HP surface mounted jet pump. If you have too small of generator, you can damage the pump. Going by the name plate rating of the generator is not always a good idea, as some generators rated at 5kw or more fail to start one of these pumps, and others rated at 3kw continuous can start them with ease.

Most of us understand we need the power source (prime mover) to develop the power to drive the generator through that inductive motor start up which can draw current 3 to 5 times as much as what it takes to run the pump motor. If all is right, this start up is short, maybe four tenths of a second. When you understand this, you can see the stored energy in a heavy flywheel can help deliver the power to cover the large demand for current. If you have a generator with a very light flywheel, the engine will need to develop this energy on its own, and the governor will need to respond quickly. In the case of the heavier flywheel, it is helping cover this short event, and the governor has more time to react and open the fuel rack.

Let’s look at a two wire 1 hp submersible pump.  In my opinion people buy these because they are a little cheaper.   The 3 wire down the well pumps often have a little better power factor and take less current to start, so I think this is a good test for the little PMG.  If it can start this pump, it can start most of them.

In this case, we are going to use the Yanmar Clone.  Our drive ratio is 5:4, so we are running the engine at less RPM and lower power than its horsepower rating of 10 HP at 3600 rpms. We do this to increase the longevity and the efficiency of the generator set. This 5:4 ratio is about as low as you want to go with the PMG and still start a big load like this with other loads on line.

UtterPower Test Bench Graph

Click to Enlarge

Above: Here’s a graph produced by a power analyzer.  It’s hard to see, but there are two inputs recorded here.  These are both of the 120 volt legs.  You can see that the pump looks a little like a crow bar has been dropped across the power leads of the generator, but about two tenths of a second into the start, we see there’s some CEMF shutting off the current as the pump rotor starts to build RPM.  At about four tenths of a second the pump is running near maximum speed and current has dropped off with voltage stabilized.  Setting up your governor on the CF186 or other prime mover to produce a voltage of 127 volts at the distribution point gives you an ANSI standard voltage and allows the PMG to produce power all the way to 4.2 KW continuous and still be ANSI legal. Please note, the Power Factor on this Pump is not optimum, and adding some run capacitance across the pump leads between the pump relay and the pump could lower the start current and use even less generator capacity. Bill Rogers has written an excellent book, Home Power Producers Guide to Electrical Reality, about what Off-Gridders and those who run back up power frequently should know, and you can learn how to optimize your loads and why you do it by reading his book.

The above example has about 675 feet of wire between the pump and the generator.

Update 7/3/2010: I recently added more load bank to the Utterpower test bench.  This allowed me to explore further the real load starting capacity of the Utterpower 3KW  PMG. With the PMG soaked to a temperature of 110F, the power analyzer saw power at >6KW for 10 seconds delivered at >220 volts. I don’t suggest that all PMGs are certified to deliver this kind of starting current, but I picked this unit at random for this test.

As we know, we typically need far less than a second to start the typical ‘hard to start’ inductive loads, and then the rotation of the shaft quickly cuts off the high current. Circuit breakers take a little time to react to high current, and the properly sized breaker will handle start current and still protect the PMG. Of course there are other considerations, we know that our prime mover MUST be up to the task of delivering the torque to maintain RPM through this short duration when we start a large induction motor. In stationary applications, this is where high mass flywheels shine, it is why so many Mechanical Engineers are fascinated with the old prime movers, the high mass stores energy, many loads take three to five times as much power to start as it does run, this info is usually provided for pump motors and other loads we must power during outages or off grid. What the ME and seasoned DIYer understands is the high mass flywheel allows us to provide high starting torque, and still run a power plant that is generally loaded at eighty percent or more where we see the best efficiency. If we deploy a prime mover with a low mass flywheel with larger cubic inches OR at far higher RPM to assure enough power to start these big loads, we typically lose efficiency and the amount of fuel we burn to produce a measured number of KWHs over time goes down. I remember being a far younger man and having all too little appreciation for the marvels created by men of past generations who had a deep understanding of the science long ago. Of course there are other considerations, and one being that some of these old engines were designed to be rebuilt in place with simple tools, no need to unbolt them from their mounts, or haul them to a repair facility, many have access doors big enough for the largest hands to gain access. the best of field mechanics might replace a cylinder liner, rings and new big end rod bearings in less than an hour. Keep water out of the fuel, keep the sun from shining directly on your gen set, and the injection pump might outlive you. Still we need consider the application, we all understand that these engines are not best suited for use in a motor home, or a number of other applications where light weight and portability and other factors are a consideration.

Imagine a motorcycle with a 24 inch 200 pound flywheel.   The first corner you try and make should be on video…

Here’s an example of dependable, efficient, easy to maintain off grid power located in our Cascade Central Mountains.

Note: As a comparison, I started a one horsepower 3 wire down the well pump (more typical) 130 feet down with 200 feet of wire between generator and pump. In this case, the CF186 was fitted with a 5″ : 4.2″ Utterpower drive. The no load voltage was 254volts (within ANSI standard), and the pump brought the voltage down to 240 volts for running. In this case, we have more horsepower available, and in this situation I can run a lot of stuff in my shop and still start the pump when it wants to run.

If there’s a point to the story, it’s that you can tune your drive system to start your largest load safely and often you can do this with a little less rpm and greatly increase the longevity of your machine and save fuel as well.  The danger is going too far and not developing the power necessary for starting inductive motors. What’s obvious to you is the direct drive doesn’t allow you to do this, there are advantages to low loss belt drive systems 🙂 dropping the belt also isolates the engine and generator which can be valuable in location a noise like a bearing going bad, vibration, etc. Having two totally separate units greatly simplifies repair and replacement when necessary. The belt driven PMG is also a very compact package and should fit nicely into the old engine compartment should you decide to make your own replacement.

One of the worst case stories I have told in past years happened about 12 years ago. A friend had a blower motor that fed a glass blowing furnace powered by natural gas. The motor was rated at only two horse power but it was part of a custom blower designed by a glass blower. The blower fan was made of heavy cast iron, it was directly mounted to the motor shaft and took a long time to spin up to speed. The owner needed a backup power for this blower and ended up buying a natural gas powered 8KW rated generator with auto transfer.

Over the next year, there were several restarts of the blower on commercial power and each failed, the breaker tripped out, the motor found bad and expensive replacement ordered and down time for the furnace. The cause was a very poorly designed blower that was nearly cooking the start windings with great commercial power. The 8KW generator would start the motor, but unknown to the customer, it was burning out the start winding in the motor when doing so! Of course the motor might run for six months or a year before shut off, so no one suspected the motor was actually bad all that time. This is more evidence that you should know your loads. This was rare, but the generator salesmen was consulted to size the generator required and naturally he assumed the 2hp motor blower would start with the 8KW generator just fine, as did I!  🙂 Moral of the story, glass blowers are not always good engineers?

Had someone put a power analyzer on that blower and consulted the motor manufacturer, they would have realized they had a product that was on the edge of destroying itself during the first 10 starts on good commercial power. In all likelihood, a few starts back to back would have taken it out at the factory had they done so. Motor specs give you all the data you need to assure you have a proper start. I am left wondering how much quicker the start would have been had they used aluminum instead of cast iron for the blower?

You can apply this story to air compressors, and even a fridge! If these items are started before the pressure is bled off the output of the compressor, they can draw a lot more current than normal to start.  Unplug some refrigerators in the middle of a run, and then plug them back in, and you’ll see the lights dim.

Posted in Generator Realities, Test Bench | Leave a comment

When Things Go Wrong: What’s At The Heart of Your Emergency Power?

What does a Sears brand refrigerator have to do with a generator?  I think a bunch. In 2009, we bought a new fridge from Sears. Due to a sticky crisper drawer and carelessness, I cracked the front of the plastic drawer when I was in a hurry and closed the fridge door with the drawer partially open.. I immediately called my wife and warned that I had just broke her fridge.  She said, “You get to order the new drawer.” 🙂  I was shocked to find the part would cost me $112 delivered, as I’m not sure the drawer weighs even a pound. But there is more to the story. Sears said the drawer may not be an exact match, but they would send a “suitable replacement that fits”. What I received for $112 was a sub-assembly. Thank goodness I didn’t break the trim and decor on the front of the drawer or the little adjustable vent that adjusts air flow into the crisper drawer. We were able to remove the pieces and build a complete drawer.

In my mind, this is equivalent to a dead canary found in the cage. I am seeing other signs of stress where companies look to see what corners they can cut, and vestments in spares is an area where cuts can be made. I am left wondering what would have happened if I had asked for the replacement after two years of ownership?

People who take the time to research generators have likely suffered outages in the past.  They may have suffered through a hurricane with no power after losing a modern disposable wonder they eventually threw away because the parts were either so costly or the parts were not available at all.

A KISS engineered two bearing generator/alternator should be the heart of your emergency power. Many of us are or have been active in armature radio, we know we are now coming out of a very quiet period as per solar activity, and we expect a lot more Solar Flares and even a return to some of the bands that worked so well in the past. Along with this activity is uncertainty. We now have so much riding on a digital network, when major elements lose timing, there’s going to be problems.  In today’s world, if the data link fails at the gas pump, you don’t pump gas.  What happens at the bank? What happens at the grocery store? Over the last few years you have seen things happen you never expected, you’ve learned how vulnerable you are, and how empty the promises are that your elected officials made to you. Will you do nothing? It might be time to invest in durable goods.

Here’s an example of a pump house powered by a KISS and EMP proof generator. This one will work and it will even run on highly filtered used motor oil if it is the only fuel you can find.

Here’s our newest DIYer in training, my grandson, Zach.  Basics first.  He already has more DIYer skills that some of the posters on forums. 🙂

Posted in Cowiche Cabin, Strange Stuff | 2 Comments

Bench Test

There are so many products out there that sales people misrepresent, the way to know the facts? Test it yourself. ‘Hands on’. Of course it’s nice to know the difference between KVAs and KWHs before you start.

Video of Test Bench in operation

Above: Part of the Utterpower Test Bench.

If you frequent the haunts I do, you will see a lot of claims where power in VS power out are outside what physics and the constraints of living here on earth allow. One of the ways you can keep from fooling yourself is to have good test equipment like a power analyzer with calibration papers and in addition have a secondary measuring device(s) just for good measure. Use only resistive loads since this relieves you of calculating the power factor in order to find true power. An analyzer that calculates power in watts will help you avoid common mistakes like resistance changes in common resistance load boxes as they heat up and stabilize. At present, my test bench can place a 5.5 KW load on the PMG, and since the 3 phase prime mover is powered by a processor controlled variable frequency drive, we can adjust for the exact frequency before we take our readings. The prime mover has a torque arm that can be connected to a strain gauge, we can also measure power into the Motor and compare that to the power out of the generator head to get some idea of efficiency from one Gen head to another. In the picture above we have the 3KW continuous rated PMG under test.

Other loads available to the test bench include a one horsepower submersible deep well pump down a little over 100 feet. Since the 3KW pmg can easily supply 5.5 KW or more at good voltage, we get quick pump starts.

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Generator Realities: Troubleshooting

For the guy who doesn’t want to learn anything about a generator or who simply doesn’t have time to learn, the following happens more than you would think. One of my friends bought a new diesel pusher motor home with a nice complicated name brand generator that burnt up two expensive control boards in the first year and a half of ownership (see footnote).
The following is what happened to one guy who wrote me 5/2010.  I can tell he is a smart guy, and had he made time to get a manual for this generator set I think he could have made a few simple checks on his own and determined the trouble. He just wasn’t aware of what a lot of repair shops will do to you if you let them.  Here are snippets from the emails during our conversation.
What I am looking for is an economical replacement for the 7.8KW Power Tech brand generator head on my RV.  I just got the unit back after spending way too much money to be told that the Kubota diesel is fine but the rotor and stator are bad and I need a new generator head to the tune of $1800 to $2300 plus labor.  At that point, I decided to get smart and do it myself plus, I like the KISS principle.
I was curious how he was treated by the repair shop, and Jay was kind enough to share the following with me when I asked for more detail.
LOL.  They first threw a new regulator at it to the tune of nearly $400 including overnight shipping and then when that didn’t work, they determined that they had to pull the whole generator unit out from under the coach.  That took about 3 hours. After ohming it out and talking to the manufacturer in Florida, they ended up charging me for a total of 6.5 hours of labor (included installing the regulator, pulling it out, and “diagnosing” it) @ $110/hour plus the regulator for a total of about $1150.  All that got me was a non-working generator sitting in the back of my pickup and a new regulator.  To top it off, they told me that this was an older brush-style generator and when took it apart, it turned out to be an exciter type so I’m not necessarily taking their word as to what is wrong with it either.  They’ve quoted me about $2300 for a new 10KW generator head plus $1100 labor to get it back in and running and that doesn’t include servicing the engine end.  I’ve found an electric motor rewinding shop that said they’d diagnose the rotor and stator for $30 once I have it apart so I may do that just to see what’s really wrong.

That’ll teach me to have an RV shop do generator work.  This is my first motor home (just got it in February) and I should have done it myself instead of having someone else do it for me but it was new to me and I was too hesitant.
It’s very typical for these RV shops to hire less than a good generator tech. Here’s some advice if you are stuck with an expensive and complicated generator set.
Call the generator manufacturer and ask them who is qualified to work on your generator set! Ask them if they sell a manual for the unit. After you’ve read Jay’s story you can see the value of paying money for a good manual and doing a little arm chair reading about it. An average tech should have proved the gen stator and rotor good or bad in 15 minutes. Looks to me like they had a less-skilled guy do the work and they charged $110 an hour while they attempted to learn the gen set.  Jay said they even had the wrong wiring diagram for his generator!

Update: 6/11/2010 I heard from Jay.  He took both rotor and stator into the rewind shop and they could find no fault with either part! Jay put the generator back together and mounted it up to the engine, he called the generator manufacturer and they were most attentive to his problem and guided him through some tests that proved the exciter, rotor, stator and more were good! Later they guided him through a voltage regulator adjustment and he has a proper output at no load.. more testing to be done, but I bet he is fine.

One thing to note here when and IF you are buying a new or used motor home, there were a lot of companies that built motor homes with near zero concern or consideration as to how an owner or repairman would gain access for repairs. If we analyze what went on here, the customer paid the RV repairmen a good chunk of money to gain access to the unit. Had the Coach Builder designed it even half way right, there would be access to test points to prove the gen head good or bad, and access to replace a bad VR, generator starter and solenoid etc. Certainly their diagnosis was bad.. but a large portion of the labor was spent in gaining access. Hats off to the generator head manufacturer for supporting the owner! If you buy a motor coach slapped together with little access, Murphy guarantees you’ll need access soon!

Update 7/2/2010:
I received a nice email from Jay today.

Good Evening George,

After several weeks of work and travel related delays, I’m pleased to let you know that I was able to test run the generator tonight and I ran the entire motor home off of it as a load test.  By chance, my Kill A Watt P4400 arrived in the mail today ($19.99 off Amazon.com) so I was able to use it to check my voltage and with both air conditioners, the microwave, and the refrigerator running, the generator held at 116.5 volts.  No-load voltage is right at 122 volts.  Needless to say, I’m as pleased that it’s working as I am aggravated at the RV tech that wired the regulator incorrectly.

I did take your advice and made myself a hinged front panel for access into that electrical box in case I ever need to get into it again.  I also changed the connections from having the coach hardwired into the generator to putting a 50A receptacle on the generator so that if I ever do need to use that generator for powering the house during a power outage, I can do it without running through the coach breaker box and receptacles.  Now to get it put back into the coach.

Thanks for all your help and encouragement.  I hope that someday I can still buy a PMG from you but for now, it’s nice to know that I can now troubleshoot what I have.

Hope you have a happy Independence Day,

Jay

His comment about the PMG? Jay had originally asked about a replacement for his generator head that was pronounced dead by a RV Shop Repairman. I knew there was a fair chance his gen head was just fine, and it would have been unethical to sell him anything without encouraging him to get a competent generator guy to look at the stator and rotor. I believe Jay’s story is far more typical than we would like to think. The more you know about your own equipment, the better off you are.

One last note….if you don’t own a Kill-A-Watt meter, why not? I remember trying to run a pellet stove years ago with a small generator during a power outage. It wasn’t long before the combustion chamber scooted up and the stove just didn’t run right. Later I checked the frequency with an old reed type instrument and found it to be running at 55hz, and low voltage of course. The control board was expecting 60hz, I think the sine wave was the basis for timing as per other functions the board controlled as well. The combustion fan was powered by an induction motor, and of course it was running off 55hz and NOT providing the combustion air the stove needed. Had I had a $20 Kill-A-Watt I would have whipped out a screw driver and adjusted the governor. On this particular unit, I ended up drilling a hole in the plastic side cover to insert a screw driver into the governor adjustment.

As a final note: Jay is a DIYer, we can see from his last email message he is a busy man and decided to rely on others to do the basic trouble shooting.  The more complex the generator is, the more likely you are to involve others in the repair process. Jay has problem solving skills. Just imagine how much more he would have paid if he didn’t have the DIYer background. We are now the minority, most thirtyish men that I know barely know where the oil fill is under the hood of their own cars. No matter how challenged you are, the Kill-A-Watt and an access point between the PMG and breaker would have given you all the information you needed. The engine either runs or it doesn’t, the generator either spins or it doesn’t.

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Footnote:

Gen Parts are often made in lots under contract. The best price is normally obtained when circuit boards are made for the production line, the company decides what the failure rate might be and asks for a certain amount of spares to be made at that time as well. When spares leave the shelves faster than expected, there are times when the price is raised quite high to slow the trend. The options the company might consider:  Claim the unit is now ‘manufacturer discontinued’, or spend a lot more money per part to make another (often smaller lot). Sometimes the quote the company gets to have a short run made is reflected in the price of current spares on the shelf.

I once was gifted a really nice (like new looking) Makita generator, the repair shop told the owner there was no spark at the plug and the electronic igniter module was manufacturer discontinued, the company did not have any kind of replacement part to fit. In other brands, I have seen that the price of these little modules were so high, people would naturally ask themselves.. “If I buy that piece, what will fail next and how much will the next part be?”

Again, if it isn’t part of the design, it can’t fail. Some will continue to tell you that all this sophistication is necessary. I suggest all you need to do is meet the standards for Electric power as expressed by the ANSI standard, and you need enough generator to start your loads. Outside of Electronic modules in engines, most generator failures are the result of a gen head failure. If you break failures down into categories, you’ll find most problems= engine OK generator head makes no power  just as in Jay’s situation above. The reason they threw the voltage regulator at the problem was it has a high probability of failure based on their experience. Of course they were wrong in Jay’s case, but Jay was paying for the new part and labor, so why not throw parts at it? After the VR, we see failures like the diode being bad on the rotor in brushless designs, lack of excitation voltage because the rectifier is bad brush types and more. PMGs have none of these parts in their design, but it is more expensive to make a high performance PMG.

Posted in Generator Realities | Leave a comment

Value Engineering

You’ve seen it, everywhere you go there are dirt cheap generators and most of them will run the 50 hours that 99% of all owners will ever run them.  For the other one percent (you and me) this becomes a problem.

I have one customer who finally found a quality 6.5 KW generator head that is advertised as commercial grade for $1500.00. This is a slim market, and few are interested in it, so when you look at comparables, you might ask yourself, for what market was this product developed, and how will it hold up in an off gird environment with steady use?

Hydro is even more demanding, and slip rings on the STs (Economy Play) have been known to erode quickly in hydro service.  If you deploy an ST in continuous service, consider installing a polarity reverser and a flasher circuit for the field, and change polarity once a month. I do not understand the slip ring erosion well, there are just too many variables, and who’s to say that the brush material, the alloy that is used for the rings, is always correct?  We also have other variables like spring pressure, humidity, temperature, and I have noticed that some generators, including some STs, use considerably more power in the field (higher voltages and high current) than similar generators which likely aggravates the problem. As I have said elsewhere, the simple ST is VERY similar to about 99% of all the hardware store generators as per its field excitation and how it gets the job done. Do note that the PMG doesn’t have any of this, so we side-step all the wear issues.

It is a fact that there are many Chinese products sold that are made not to use.  Examples being the many Chinese horizontal engines with radiators on top.  Many fail at about 100 (give or take) of running.  China now has serious problems that plague them.  Those that understand just how hard it is to recover after losing all your trained and key people will understand why there are a lot of goods coming out of China right now that are no where near the quality that they achieved when orders for goods were brisk. Having your own quality control program in China is presently critical.

Posted in Generator Realities | Leave a comment

Turbo Compound Engine

Here’s some general information about turbo compound engines.

Here’s some good reading and the author has included some very interesting data that demonstrates an 18% increase in efficiency at high loading. Article is not free at this time, sorry.

I think the compound turbo used to run an alternator at turbine shaft speed rpm might be a great application for the hybrid auto, since all the other systems are already part of the design, the blow down turbo alternator might be a cost effective add on, and it’s output might feed directly into the motor to improve hill climbing performance, or routed back to the battery as the regenerative breaking system does.

Seems there’s a bunch of liberal dope smoking pot heads out there ready to harness energy from over unity schemes, but modern materials and the hybrid concept may give humanity reason to revisit the proven turbo compound engine, and the application of exhaust driven turbines to recover energy.  As mentioned in both articles, the system was complex, but that was using 1940s technology.  Using a microprocessor and rare earth materials for a high speed alternator running at turbine shaft speeds may provide cost effective efficiency gains in modern piston engines, especially at high loading. Worth exploring in the COGEN and HYBRID application I think.

MY thanks to retired Engineer Paul Lamar for writing the great article found in August 2009 KITPLANES magazine. If you don’t like aircraft, you’re not really a Motor Head.

GB

Posted in Engines | Leave a comment

Economy PMG Generator

OHV Vertical Shaft Lawn Mower Engine with Utterpower PMG

You start with a sheet of 3/16 inch metal or thicker, cut a few holes, and few hole slots, add a few pulleys and you have a generator that will put out AC or charge a 48 volt battery string with some respectable output.

In my opinion, it’s best to avoid the flat head engines.  There are now plenty of 6- 6.5 HP OHV engines for cheap; and you should pass on the flat heads, they burn too much fuel and don’t last nearly as long as these newer and better OHV models.

Since the PMG ships with a serpentine pulley, you only need buy one more for the engine, and a serpentine belt.

Add some angle and sides to the plate, or mount it between your wooden frame, and your ready to run.

But some will ask, why build this??

A labor charge for a small repair on a lawn mower will junk it in a hurry.  And there are a lot of good engines sitting on mower decks with problems.

An excellent example is one of the Honda OHV equipped engines (not the OHC), these Honda OHV engines have gone many thousands of hours, and they are fairly fuel efficient.  I’m sure there are others that are great engines as well.

Fact is, the first thing that fails on a hardware store generator is the generator, not the engine, so building something like this could be a real advantage, and finding spare engines should be a snap! Maybe if you’re an off gridder, you have a few spare engines?

Harbor freight is currently selling a 6.5 HP horizontal shaft engine for $129.00. For those that have experienced faults and loss of electrical output in small generators, they are buying two of these engines, (one for a spare), and using them to drive the PMG, and/or car alternator for battery charging. It’s easy to configure for one or both on the same frame (a value play).   Some remind us it was the failure of their generator head that failed them last time, and investing in a generator like this allows  the mounting of nearly any horizontal engine, and running it in hard times. If you buy the PMG with its 4.2 inch stock serpentine, you need only buy another 4.2″ pulley, and then go to NAPA or any other auto parts house and ask for the serpentine belt you need. Remember, those last digits are belt length, 425 at the end would be a 42.5 inch belt. Simply wrap a string around the pulleys, measure how long the string is, figure how much shorter or longer it can be, and call the auto parts store to see what they have in stock.  Most stores near me can get about anything in 4 hours, or you can find lots of belts under the hood of cars and trucks in the junk yard.  Get familiar with cars and trucks that use the shorter ones for auxiliary equipment, one long serpentine is typical, but many have added another drive pulley and a short belt for various things. Two bearing generators and air conditioning compressors have been run off the same serpentine belt.  The automotive type compressor has an electric clutch, and it free wheels when not in use.  In their home built setup, AC components from a car or truck are used to cool a room, and the rather significant losses from mechanical to electrical, and electrical to mechanical energy at the other end are avoided.  This can result in a lot more cool for any given amount of fuel burned.

There are a lot of durable engines out there to be reused, some have tapered shafts as there are many generators that failed and the engines was pulled off the Gen Set. Could the engine be redeployed? I have wondered if it’s possible to ‘press off’ the electricals on the Gen side, and use the gen side shaft as an adapter to convert the taper shaft to a straight shaft. I am sure I’ve seen these conversions, just not sure that’s how it was accomplished. When using a tapered bushing like used with our pulleys, I doubt you even need a key way, the compression of the taper bush should transfer enough torque to twist the shaft!  Bob Otey presses out motor shafts and makes longer custom shafts for specific applications all the time. This gives me hope it’s easy in the typical big box generator application if you have a press. One engine I like is the 11 hp Honda that was used in 5kw construction generators.  I have heard a few stories of Hondas of this design reaching a rather amazing 10,000 hours of running when they were deployed as battery chargers in off grid locations. One report of this was from an editor of a monthly publication that’s been around for a long time, but I would imagine the running RPM was reduced.   We can do that with the two bearing generator and set the drive ratio we want and don’t need run it so fast.

I have a Honda OHV engine of similar design that refuses to die.  It has lived 4 times longer than what most people expected out of it.

BTW, I see a number of posts looking for adapters to convert a tapered shaft to a straight shaft, since these single bearing heads often use the same size tapered shaft, an adapter might be a good part to make and sell on Ebay….  Yes, California’s “All Knowing” CARB will likely cause manufacturers to accept their even higher standards soon. There’s talk that next year’s big box store generator will have a catalytic converter on it and cost you 20% more.  It might be a good idea to provide this handy part to allow us to recycle the stuff made prior that isn’t crippled by CARB.

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Goat Peak

Picture: Alex on the way up Together; (Grandson Alex and I) studied the Mountain high above our Easton, WA Cabin called Goat Peak.  We were planning an ascent into the high country the next morning. Yes, I’ve waited 8 years for him to grow legs long enough and to be big enough where a Cougar would at least have more trouble pulling him off the trail and gnawing on him before I could get there and whack him with a stick.
We never know what tomorrow brings, wait too long, and we might find our own legs will no longer carry us into the haunts of the Mountain Ravens and Wild Goats.
The morning of our climb, we started the Lister 6/1 generator, set a few sprinklers at the cabin to cool the area for Grandma, we ate breakfast, loaded the 4WD mini truck with our packs, and a small cooler with cold drinks to help re-hydrant us on the way down. Alex and I again gazed upwards from the valley floor at Goat Peak, a monolith in the Cascade Range that lay another 3000 feet above us.  If all went well, we’d be sitting on top in 3 hours!
The Mini Truck’s low range and the rear locker got us up though the washouts and through Tucker Creek, we only needed half a road, and that’s all we had in a lot of spots, Alex has lots of four wheel experience and he sat near silent as the Mini’s bumper slammed into the creek bottom as we crossed the worst of the washouts caused by heavy winter water flows. More travel through overgrown logging roads where branches allowed us no more than a 50 foot view ahead in several areas.
Finally we intersected a better road, and traveled upwards to the unmarked trailhead.
Upon arrival, we parked the Mini, checked our foot gear, packs, sun block applied, head gear, food, water, and began the climb of a series of switch backs that took us to God’s country. Alex climbed the series of switchbacks like a goat. For me, it was better than a tread mill test.

Above: In some areas, we had to hold on to the cliff side with our finger nails, and scurry along ledges only an inch or two wide. Just kidding Mom 🙂 If you look close, you can see the lake below Hyak on I-90 laying in the upper left.

Picture Above: On the way up we look out over Lake Kachess. Those snow covered peaks in the background are parts of the Stuart Mountain Range. The smaller peak that lay between us and the lake is Monahan Mountain. Monahan started the Cabin Creek Logging Camp. Vic Monahan, the Grandson of the founder still lives in the area, He’s a Forester, Steward of the Land, Outdoorsmen, and he knows this area extremely well.
This was the perfect trail and perfect adventure for a Grandfather and Grandson, go on a weekday, go early and enjoy the near 30 degree F difference between peak and the valley floor. We were lucky enough to have the entire mountain to ourselves, the ascent is on a north face, the thick Conifer Forest kept the temperatures at 62F>63F most of the trip, how wonderful that was!
Zach, get ready, you’re next, I guess I need to keep in shape for another 7 plus years.

Update: Here’s a follow up I received in the mail, a hand made card. I’ll save this one 🙂

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2008 Over Unity Award: Idea of the Year

I get a lot of emails with information about stuff each year, and some are plenty strange, but this is my pick for first place for 2008.

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