Redstone Generator

How to DIY your own frame

There are advantages to using belt drives on slow speed engines used for generators, the obvious is you need to make synchronous speed at the generator head, but beyond that; you can underrun the rated Prime Mover RPM if you don't need all the power, and may be able to find a higher fuel/KwH conversion while providing all the power you need. You are able to experiment, and optimize the drive ratio.

Many of us are aware that when we drop the RPM some, we also give up some of that wonderful stored energy in the flywheel, and we won't be starting the larger induction motors with the same authority.

Following is a basic frame design, I like steel, others use wood, and use large angle iron on the face where the engine actually mounts, there are many ways to make a frame right.

Above: We start with two I beams 50 inches long, and three rectangular tube cross ties. This frame is 24 inches wide.

Above:  I used two heavy angles across the end and center cross ties for the engine support. The ST Generator is mounted on a typical sub assembly I use on Listers and more. Simply place angles on the inside of the eye beam tops to build a frame that 'tracks' inside the I beams. The Pulleys are 8.4" and 5 inch, I will trial same, but I will most likely use an 11.25 on the prime mover, and about a 7.0 on the generator head, we'll see how this combo works.

Above: this is the business side "Operators Side" we always want to fit pulleys as far away from the operator as possible.

If you look at the picture above, the Utterpower intake is two inch NPT, the governor spring and adjustment is modified form stock to include a softer and longer spring for a reduced running speed.

The intake will be connected via a hose to a filter box, Note the cooling manifold, this is an utterpower part.

Above: here we can see the base for mounting pulleys, the lower side cooling port, the two inch NPT exhaust port.