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As of 2/2008, I have seen a number of Engines sold as Changfa Brand on Ebay or off other Websites, that are NOT the Changfa brand that I have experience with. I have discussed reliability and quality issues ongoing with a lot of owners, and I am now convinced that there are other Brands offering good service, just which ones are good or bad, is not something I know or understand at this time. I will work towards scrubbing the Changfa brand from my WEBsite, as I no longer know the value of buying this brand over another brand, AND there seem to be a few people claiming to sell this brand only because I have mentioned it here, and they are not :-( I have no loyalty to this brand, I think China has made some progress in QA, but I'm still sure you can find some questionable stuff.. buy from those who offer a warranty, and do not accept a warranty from the manufacturer, make sure it comes from the vendor, as you'll likely be asked to ship your engine off to Shanghai for inspection otherwise. I'll work to change page names as time permits, the world is changing, and so must some of my pages.
See how these tough Engines are used in Vietnam American Rob Whitty in Ghana relies on the Chinese 1115 and Allmand Drive See examples of the Basic Truck, and transportation in China NEW Purchase a German Designed, Chinese Diesel NEW Electrics How to wire your Chinese Engine (Thanks Daniel!) 7X24 Duty! A great story in progress. Harry's Chinese Horizontal powered generator Harry Anderson Here's a link to my first Chinese Horizontal powered generator. Learn how easy it is to tank cool a Chinese Horizontal, and know that the same setup works well with an auto radiator. Examples, of what folks do with these engines. Put a Chinese Horizontal on your Garden Tractor? Why Not ?? Hard Lessons Do some research before you buy. General Design Overview China makes large volumes and types of Diesels, soem are cast iron, heavy, and built to last, soem have quality issues. There's a number of standard engines in China and a large degree of parts interchange between the engines that different Manufacturers in China make. The 195 and 1115 are my favorites, they are mostly German designs, and have two counter balance shafts, they run very smoothly at rated speed. These engines typically make 13.38 and 22 HP at rated RPMs, I run them at 1800 RPMs for direct drive and longevity. Some of these engines are hopper cooled, others have radiators, fans, belts, and little DC alternators designed to charge a start battery and power a head light. The later are sometimes fitted to two wheeled tractors that are used to pull carts to market. The fan belt is something that can fail, the condensers are sized to work with the fan. I get a number of complaints about this set up. Most of the tractors use the hopper cooled engines because they are trouble free and do not fail, but you need to add water. I have some regular visitors that are kind enough to point out things that will be of value to our readers; following is a snippet From Andris V. I could never reconcile their conversions from Hp
to kW. They always seemed to be a little off. Then I remembered there are at
least four different definitions of Hp (rounded to five places): The belt driven setup fits up against the wall nicely, it doesn't require any walk around room, and all maintenance can be done from the front of the unit. The two heavy belts may last a life time, we'll see. The typical Chinese Horizontal comes with a standard pulley that mounts to the flywheel, If you want to direct couple to something, it can be done fairly easily. I like to do the job with junk parts or standard parts, when possible, read on for my approach.
First let's look at the stock pulley, the ring cut on the back side 'centers' the pulley into grooves cut in the flywheel face.
Here's a Chinese l 195 flywheel facing a ST 10KW Generator shaft. Notice the three raised mounting tabs, the inward side is machined to receive the pulley, this arrangement 'centers' the pulley. 5/13/04 inserted note: As of this date, we have a good number of drives in the field. I focus on 10KW and lower requirements, so if you're looking for a coupler to hook your 50kW Gen Head to an old Cat Engine (or similar), you need to keep looking. I have received several emails stating that there are tougher couplers than the Love Joy L series. This is a fact! There's also tougher fuses than the 50 amp fuse, but most of us would not substitute a 100 amp fuse for the 50 amp. We need to look at the engine crank shaft, the coupler, and the rotor as a mechanical circuit. If you do something really stupid, like try and trip the circuit breaker and bring your gen set on line 180 degrees out of phase with commercial power, what do you want to break? Your choices are: the engine crankshaft, the generator's salient style rotor with four massive bobbins on it, or the inexpensive love joy coupler half? Here's a link to a life's lesson I learned the hard way, keep this in mind, there's all kinds of folks out there that have opinions about what's best, sometimes their opinion is influenced by what's on the shelf that they didn't sell. To date, the only coupler half broken was in a 'train wreck'; where the generator head went on line with commercial power180 degrees out of phase. This is the equivalent to a 'head on collision' in mechanical terms. The Love Joy half did break, and there was one HELL of a bang, the least expensive part was sacrificed...
Above is a picture of our first direct drive. The three holes drilled in the rotor face are used to mount the unit to the flywheel. This work was done by Randy Allmand in Kent, WA... Thanks Randy !!!
And here's the back side, notice the lip around the inside, go back up and compare this to the stock pulley cut, this is what the direct drive will CENTER on.
Here's a picture of the coupler mounted, note that the stub shaft is Just the right length to accept the Love joy coupler. In the right side frame, you see the Lovejoy (half) mounted. Go up a few frames and see the large fastener holding on the flywheel. That is why the center of the drive base is raised. June 7, 2002 And now for the final fitting, but first I should share how I chose to mount the engine and generator. If you look at the engine in the first picture of this page, you will see that it comes stock with legs. I choose to mount both the Chinese l Engine and ST Generator directly onto a frame made of two 4 inch high eye beams tied together with square tubing. The four inch height of the beams allowed me to unbolt the legs and mount the engine directly to the top of the eye beams. The oil pan sets between the 'I' beams and has adequate clearance from the floor. Cross ties were welded between the beams to align with the mounting holes in the bottom of the generator. The top of these ties match the deck height of the eye beams. Once the engine and generator were set in place, it became obvious that the distance from the deck to the centerline of the shafts was different. After measuring closely, a smile came across my face; The center line of the engine crank shaft was sitting EXACTLY .375" lower than the generator shaft centerline! Three Hundred and Seventy Five Thousands...... the thickness of a good ole common piece of 3/8th flat bar stock. I located a piece and cut two lengths to match the width of the legs I just removed. I used the legs to match the hole spacing and then drilled two 1/2 inch holes in each piece of bar stock. I unbolted the engine, added these to each side as shim stock, and bolted it back together.
This is not the best picture, but the 3/8 material makes for a perfect alignment height !
This picture is a little busy, but it gives you some idea how easy it was to make a direct drive gen set. I'll call it the ChangYanGen. I think it will work well. Don't forget the oil drain plug. If you mount it as I have, the drain plug will be difficult to reach. BUT... there's an easy fix.... see below.
Look closely, and you can see a standard pipe fitting TEE fitted to the drain plug. I used a TEE knowing I could tighten it with twice the precision of a 90 degree elbow. The other side of the TEE is plugged. As you can see, the pipe is brought out to a place where the oil can be easily drained. The other side of the TEE can be exploited later to effectively extend the sump, more on this later. This picture also shows the 3/8 inch stock used as a shim, and you can see how the engine is bolted to the 'I' beam. MORE ON DRIVES 09/16/02 2nd generation direct drive is ready for shipping. 12/01/02 3rd generation direct drive nearing completion.
Above is the purpose built casting before any machine work.. One of our Associates has fallen in love with this German designed single. In a short amount of time he has collected a 195, and two larger engines. We have exchanged numerous emails and telephone calls and have decided to work together to make available several parts that we feel are needed for these engines. Since Mike is an Engineer, owns a foundry and machine shop, it's not difficult for him to design and build parts from the ground up versus the previous ones we've made from existing donor parts. The third Generation drive can be made to fit 185s, 195s, 1100s and maybe others with a little machine work. Mounting Love Joy couplers, Chain couplers, drive yokes for drive shafts all become easy with this part. We can supply you the part finished to your spec. Send me email if you are interested in this part. If you have a Hopper Cooled Chinese diesel, you may have become envious when you saw one with a built in radiator. If your application allows, you can adapt your engine to radiator cooling and come up with a superior cooling system! Make use of a Junk auto heater core and fan, or... If you think you really need more cooling.. use the auto radiator out of a compact junk auto; with the massive cooling area, you probably won't need the fan.
This picture is of a raw casting right out of the mold. The conversion kit is designed to create a good thermal flow from the block to the radiator. The holes receive standard pipe threads, and other parts are fitted to assure a rapid and positive thermal siphon. Note the raised surface around the one hole.. if you wish to use the small block Chevy goose neck and thermostat to properly control your engine coolant temp, it's ready to go. The third hole is designed to accept a sending unit or be capped off. The conversion kit comes with instructions that will steer you clear of common mistakes made in thermal siphon systems. Write me if you'd like to convert your hopper cooled engine to a real cooling system, conversion kits will be available in Jan 2003.
Above is a real poor picture of a hopper conversion for the 195 engine. Note the nipple on the right, this houses the thermostat. I use the NAPA part number 253 under the combination flange and nipple.
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