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1115_ST10_Gen 195_ST5 (or) ST7.5 Gen (almost identical) Construction See the Daniel Levin Autostart/Autostop Generator set on the utterpower CD Read email exchange between George and Bill Rogers on this setup. I started this Genset base with salvaged 5 inch by 2 inch Channel Iron. Five inch (height) is the minimum to allow clearance for the 1115 engine pan. The engine arrives on two cast legs, if you stick with the design theory of eliminating all unnecessary parts, you'll quickly toss these items into your junk bin. I have received a number of accounts of these legs coming loose, and resulting in train wrecks, if it happens to you, remember you were warned here. If you think you like wood better, no problem! just cap the top and insides of the rails with two inch angle iron.
Above is one of the stock cast legs the engine is shipped on, get rid of them! eliminate them from your design.
Above you can see the engine setting on top of the channel, see the shims that are placed under the engine to align the coupling. In my case, two pieces of quarter inch and a .040 piece of sheet metal aligned the coupling perfectly. The frame rails are 40 Inches long, and they set 17 and 5/16 inches apart, exactly the length of the Engine base.
Here's a close up of the generator sub frame; it's made of two pieces of angle iron that 'track' on top of the main channel frame.. Cross pieces of angle run between these angles to support the generator and provide a rigid mount for the bolts. I used 6013 welding rod to weld up the frame. Note that the coupling needs to be aligned with care. Side to side alignment can be achieved by slotting the generator mounting holes slightly. Once satisfactory alignment is achieved, vice grips or C clamps are used to hold the position while holes are drilled through the angle and channel to receive bolts and lock washers to 'lock in' the position. Should you have a need to service the coupling, remove these bolts, and slide the gen head back to open the coupling, replace the spider, or remove the head all together.
Above: A not so good picture showing a bolt going through the main frame into the sub frame and locking in the alignment of the coupler. Removing these two bolts allows the head to be slid back, and the coupler serviced or head removed. My channel is 40 inches long, and the frame is 17.5 inches wide.
Above: Here's how I chose to mount the engine, the corners of the channel and the corners of the engine base are flush. Here you can see the strap I used as a spacer to elevate the engine, and you can also see a cut in the top of the channel for ring gear clearance. Notice where you insert the starting handle for manual starting, if you extend the frame too far, you'll wrap your knuckles on the frame! Also think about how you will access the drain plug.
Here's the MJ drive adapter before the rubber spider is inserted, you'll note coupling is already pretty close, note that this is a first generation coupler. I found some one inch thick rubber matt at Boeing surplus, it's great stuff to cut at the same diameter and place under your frame at four corners. It can make an amazing difference in noise reduction.
You will always look for long unsupported lines and make a support for them, otherwise they will vibrate, work harden, and break at one end or the other. How you do it may be different, but this works well.
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